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| The
2020 Orange Gewürztraminer Nikolaevo Vineyard was aged for 12 months in
neutral French oak and comes in at 13.46% alcohol. The biggest issue here,
though, is that this is a so-called "orange wine." It had one month
of skin contact after wild ferment vinification and was left on the lees
until bottled. The winery calls this the "five NOs wine," meaning
no cultured yeasts, temperature control, stabilization, filtration or added
sulfites. The oxidative nuance common to many such wines is modest and the
power controlled, but there is a stray oxidative nuance and grip on the
finish. You'll certainly understand that it is not a normal white wine.
Sometimes, orange wines can go over the top, but this controls itself pretty
well. It will still need a food pairing. The Gewürztraminer, happily, gives
this a bit of personality that counters the structural issues. It becomes a
little spicy, a little different. I rather liked it in the end, but between
the grape and the vinification, it is going to require some palate
adjustment... Drink 2022 through 2027. — 89 PointsWine Advocate, May 31, 2022 |
